Feeling like a buttercup

I finished the skirt I wanted to make from the tablecloth I bought some weeks ago.

That a round tablecloth could be turned into a skirt is rather obvious, but it only stuck in my mind after having found this tutorial via Va-Voom Vintage-Free Patterns-Page.

I didn’t measure my waist for the skirt itself, because I already had a given line where I had to cut because of the hole in the middle section, which was causing a larger circle to cut out than my waist would have done. That means that the final length was given, too and it shouldn’t have been any shorter.

To fit the skirt to my waist, I gathered the fabric into pleats while attaching the waistband. I cut the circle to insert a seam with a zipper in the centre back. I know that you can insert a zipper without opening the complete length of the skirt, but it never came out as I wanted it and the fabric is so thin and frays very easily, so I decided against it.

 

Because the fabric was transparent I lined it with a cream coloured lining I had in stock. I had to cut two half circles for the lining, because I was running out of fabric. I didn’t want to have side seams in the skirt, but the zipper in the centre back, so I had to cut one of the lining half circles in half again.

To form the waistband I had nothing but the circle I cut from the middle. I cut three straps each 3,5cm in width, applied fusible interfacing and merged them into one long waistband. Because I didn’t want to waste anything of the fabric on the inside, I used some old bias binding for this. Well, and then I made a stupid mistake: The straps were around 40cm in length each. I didn’t want to use only two, even though it would have been enough, but that would have caused me a seam in the centre front (only now I realize that I could have solved the problem with making side seams and a side zipper, but now it’s too late). So I cut three, as much as I could without having any bits of embroidery on the waistband, and planned to cut the waistband on both ends, so the two seams wouldbe placed somewhere around my kidney, besides the zipper.

So much about planning. What I did was ironing the future and turned over waistband in half, chose the cleaner end of the bias binding inside (the other end had a little frayed on the edges because it was lying in my sewing basket without any wrapping) and cut the desired length. And of cause I realized my mistake in that very moment!  Well, too late, I had no more fabric to made another waistband and now the seam is only slightly off the centre front.
But I planned to wear it with a belt anyway.

 

Here you can see the embroidery:

(yes, I should have dropped my camera and yes, the case is too large for the camera inside)

Well, the rest is not very interesting. I attached the upper fabric and the lining at the same time, the lining without pleats in the waist (so I had to calculate the circle cutout at last), finished the hem with a rolled seam (the upper fabric has an embroidered scalloped edge, so I had no work on that one) and closed the waistband with two little hooks and eyes.

(the zipper’s end is normally hidden by flap, I don’t know if I didn’t close it properly or if it undid itself)

And that’s it, a simple circle skirt.

(blouse: lifetime; shoes: Dosenbach, fragrance: Nina Ricci – L’air du Temps)

See you soon, love

ette

Posted in sewing and handcrafting | 7 Comments

Flea Market on a Sunday Morning

I was really looking forward to go to the flea market today, but I think I imagined it to be less windy and less cold. Now, it was both and so we rather rushed through it instead of strolling around and searching for treasures. But I am still quite happy with the things I found.

Now, let’s look at them chronologically in a reverse order, first the youngest and most unspectacular find, I am constantly enlarging my record collection.

Next, a round polyester table cloth. It was made from a very thin fabric and ornated with white chain-stitch embroidery (industrially, it’s not homemade). The fabric itself is a very light yellow.

Unfortunately there is a little burnt hole in the middle. But that doesn’t really matter, from the moment  I saw it I imagined it to become a circle skirt. I will have to line it, the fabric is a little transparent.

And I bought a little book. It is a school book for crafts and home economic lessons, teaching you how to sew basic things like aprons and nightgowns, to darn socks, to knit simple pullovers for children and to create your own crocheted lace.

And another book, a french cooking book. I just had to buy it, I mean, it is “La cuisine de Nanette” that is pretty close to my own forename. It is very fragile, the pages break very easily (somehow it seems to be a general problem of old french books, I own several whose pages break just by watching them and I can’t record similar experiences from german or swiss books of the same age. The paper seems to be thicker but as well less elastic). The back of the book is broken, it seems as if the seller has tried to stabilize it with adhesive tape, it hasn’t been on the book for long. Sadly I wasn’t able to remove it completely, I would destroy the print underneath it on the cover. I hate this I-can-restore-anything-with-Scotch-tape-attitude.

And between the pages I found lots of other recipes or improvised bookmarks cut out of newspapers from different decades (the obituary is the back of a recipe).

And the last find, I love it, I wouldn’t have written a post today if I hadn’t found it. I never was much into antique home textiles, I like them but often they are quite expensive and I am an expert in spilling drinks on everything, so I wouldn’t dare to use them anyway. But in the same box as the other table cloth I found something I just couldn’t leave behind. An art nouveau damask table cloth! After some digging through old handkerchiefs I managed to excavate three matching napkins as well.

The blanket is square but rather large (160cm side length) and it has this beautiful embroidered monogram I only discovered at home, all napkins are embroidered with the same monogramm as well. It is very difficult to photograph linen damask, I hope you can see the woven pattern in the white middle area. It only has one little stain somewhere in the middle, but I am confident to get rid of it, there is only white linen near to it, so I don’t have to be afraid of destroying any colour.

I hope you all have a lovely sunday, I will help myself now to a nice little cup of hot chocolate to face my permanently cold hands.

See you soon, love

eette

Posted in antiques, everything else | 1 Comment

A new toupee for me

I am very happy to show you a little sewing project I made a couple of weeks ago.
A fake fur collar:

Like most students I work besides going to University. When studying in Germany I was lucky and could work as a shop assistant in a fabric and haberdashery shop. And of course we sold fake fur as well. This one was one of the most expensive in the shop (I don’t remember its price, but comparable fake furs are sold online around 50€/m)). A woman came and bought 2m, she wanted to line it to make a faux fur blanket. She was the first client to buy the fur from this bolt, so the edge was cut very rough. And because we had a large table and were accustomed to cut fur she asked us to cut away the inconsistent edge, so she would be able to leave with a perfect rectangle. And of course we did. The piece of fabric we cut away was 1m in width and almost 20cm high. My boss wanted to throw it away, so I asked her if I could keep it, because I already imagined it to become a collar. She agreed and the fabric stayed in my stock a long, long time.

Some months ago I bought a champagne-coloured lining and the fur came to my mind again. I thought it was about time to face this project.

The fabric was cut like a very long triangle, so I folded it in half to shape it into a symmetrical curve at the diagonal edge. Then I backed it with the lining. I decided against a satin bow to close it, but went for a grosgrain ribbon instead. The fur itself already is so much over the top, I didn’t want to stress it any further.

The collar seen from the back, the width in the centre back is 13cm, it looks larger because of the pile.
To wear it like this it is a little to long, it measures 1m between the ribbons. It always slips off my shoulders.
When going outside and wearing a Trenchcoat or another coat with a V-shaped neckline, I can pull the pointed ends down and use it to keep my throat warm:

And it is also possible to wear it like a scarf by wrapping it round the neck twice.

And as fancy dress to turn into a russian tzarina^^

(for this style I had to turn it upside down, because I needed the round edge. Here you can see that I folded the lining over the edge to close it, because I couldn’t turn it over completely)

I attached the lining first on the upper edge, the right sides facing each other, then turned it and pulled the lining down, forcing the fur to fold at the seam as well and the pile to stand up. If I wouldn’t have done that, the fur would have lied flat and the lining would have been visible on the top edge. The downside is, that the upmost region of the fur seems to be grey, showing off the unpatterned pile. But when it is worn and moved it doesn’t look that bad as in the photos.

To keep it in place I had to topstitch the seam again. And yes, I sewed the whole collar without using my sewing machine, I prefer to control the things I sew and I wasn’t sure if I would be able to do so when working with this fur (that is the reason because I insert most of the zippers and buttonholes by hand as well, I know I can’t do it properly with my sewing machine).

As I already said, to close the lower edge I just folded the lining over and sewed through all the layers at once.

To hide the edges at the two ends, I hid them under the ribbon:

Here a photo of the whole collar lying flat:

And, save the best for last. maybe you would like to try making your own one?
All you need is very little fake fur, 15cm x 100cm, a little bit more lining, maybe 20cm x 100cm and 130cm ribbon of your choice.I only cut the ends with pinking shears, but of course you can hem them as well.

I made you a little drawing for the three steps, I don’t think you need instructions how to add a ribbon, do you? ;-)

Pay attention to:

- the pile. Mine is facing downwards, but I can imagine it looking great the other way round as well. In this case you might need to find another solution to attach the lining.

- not to cut the pile. When cutting fur, always cut it from the reverse side and do not open your scissors to wide, you only want to cut the fabric not the pile. Especially when working with long haired fur this is crucial, you can easily destroy several centimetres of the fabric by cutting the pile, it will be lacking on the edges.

- pay attention to every stitch you make. When working with a sewing machine you have to release the fibres trapped in the seam with a pin after sewing. When handsewing you have to take care of this as well and that no fibres are pulled through the pinhole when pulling the thread through it. Otherwise your seam would look very strange on the lining side of the collar.

 

And why toupee? Well, my boyfriend hates it as much as I love it. And just for fun we always call it “Fiffi”. And because “Fiffi” in German is a nickname for a small dog with too much hair and as well for a toupee, I chose this title.

See you soon, love

ette

 

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Let’s push the spring to come! Giveaway at By gum, by golly!

Because, as you all know, after spring comes…summer!

Having a really grey and cold weather outside all I can do is dream of lying in the summer heat on the lakeside or the riverbank in Berne, eating a large ice cream and enjoying every single sunbeam.

If you can’t wait for summer, sun and warmth to come, too, maybe this giveaway can put you into the right mood:

Tasha from By gum, by golly (I love,love,love reading her blog, and I have to admit, I have been using her blogroll nearly as much as mine in the past weeks) is hosting a giveaway. What can you win?
Beautiful retro swimwear from Popina! I didn’t know the shop, but I fell in love with the swimsuits as soon as I saw them. I’m trying hard not to place an order right now, having bought a swimsuit only last summer (but those are so much more beautiful and elegant, so winning one would be absolutely perfect).

As you can see, I’m smitten, already picturing myself sitting on the lawn like a young Kitty Kallen.

All you have to do is follow the link and leave a comment with a Popina Swimsuit of your choice at Tasha’s blog.

Popina Swimwear retro swimsuit giveaway!

Good Luck!

I hope I will be able to write a little post about a small project I finished already a while ago later this day. If not, I will publish it tomorrow.

Love

ette

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Happy Easter

I wish you all a very happy Easter. I really hope your weather is a little more springlike than ours, it is all white outside, it snowed the whole day on friday, so it feels more like Christmas than anything else.

Merry Holidays, love,

ette

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Name – Award – Home Improvement

I’m sorry, again no sewing progress. I hope I can show you something new soon.

Now, this is going to be a mixed post, but I didn’t want to make an extra one for every subject.

After re-animating this blog I already promised I would tell you something about the new title, but I completely forgot about in in my last posts.
I didn’t invent it myself, so I feel the urge to tell you its origin:
During the research I made at the museum in Lyon, I stumbled upon a small castle close to Paris, called “Château de Bagatelle”. When Marie Antoinette and the King’s brother visited the current castle’s predecessor it wasn’t a real attractive building. They were mocking about its appearance and Marie Antoinette bet, that her brother-in-law would not be able to turn this place into something beautiful within three months.
But the Comte d’Artois, the official title of the King’s brother, won the bet and made François-Joseph Bélanger create a neat little ‘maison de plaisance’, which exists until today.

Photo: Myrabella / Wikimedia Commons / CC-BY-SA-3.0

And above the main entrance he had a little slogan engraved, ‘parva sed apta’. It is Latin, parva means small, sed means but. Apta is a little difficult to translate, meaning something like appropriate, suitable, matching. In my eyes, small but appropriate does not sound positive enough. For me, it means, it is great. It is small, but it has the perfect size, it is exactly the castle it should be and that was desired.

Chosing this as a title I transfered this slogan to my blog and my blogging activity. I don’t need to write every day, I don’t need a professionally built website. I am happy with the little project I run and that there are some people who like to read and see what I am doing. Yes, it is a small blog, but I like it exactly the way it is.
And of course, I transfer it to myself as well. I am not very tall at all, I don’t even reach 1,60m. But I am perfectly content with who I am and I don’t want to be one centimetre taller. :-) This slogan is like the quintessence of thoughts I have about myself. Now, enough talking about three small words, let’s move on because

dear MindLess gave me this lovely blog award.

Now I have to think about five facts about myself.

1. I am kind of neurotic when it comes to counting and sorting, I really would be a perfect match for Count von Count from Sesame Street. I count ravioli when serving and sort buttons by colours, to name only very little examples (and only in case you don’t know it, the Song of the Count, it’s so great). And, I count this as a sort of sorting, I love to arrange items.

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2.I often use fabric handkerchiefs, I try to use them always as long as I am not ill. And I love to pick one to match the colours of my outfit.

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3. Besides historic clothing I love historic cooking and cookbooks. The ones from the 60ies I love because of their photos and the colours they use, the older ones I love because they often use recipes no-one knows anymore and I love to try them. I own some of those hideous fish molds as well.

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4. I never was a good photographer, I didn’t even take the time to read the manual to understand the digital camera I bought (or the very expensive book I bought as well). So most of my photos do not turn out very good. On the other hand both of my parents are passionate amateur photographers, so I grew up with analogue cameras all around me. And I just love it, taking pictures, the sound of the release, when my mom coiled up the film in the camera, when we went to the chemnist’s shop to have the photos developed and the surprise when we were finally able to see them. So it is complicated, I love photography, but never took the time to get really good at it. To revive my childhood memories and to improof my skills in photography, I bought myself an old analogue camera, a Voigtländer Vito CD (they were produced from 1961-1966) and I really want to take a lot of photos this spring, occupying myself with things like aperture, exposion and so on to really understand the process of photographing. I can’t wait to go outside!

5. I can’t think of anything fifth. So instead I will show you what I have done in the past few days. I began feeling really uncomfortable in my Sewing-Area. It was always messy and, I don’t know, I really needed a change. So I re-arranged the furniture a little and I am very happy with the result. I hope this will help me to be more productive and creative in the next time.
Maybe you can remember how it looked before, although I never showed you any pictures of it, but sometimes you were able to see a little bit in the background when photographing different things.

Left of the cupboard I use to shoot my outfit pictures, right of it used to stand my dress form.  Next to the door used to stand my sewing machine, I made it change place with the bookshelf.

The two large pictures hung there before, but they just didn’t look good behind the sewing machine. I like it a lot more like this. The butterfly above on the left actually is a real one, I bought it in a charity shop. The smaller one is only an antique print, but I love that it was professionally framed, I found it at an antique fair. Standing on the shelf, a postcard showing Josephine Baker and one of the most loved items I own, a Bette Davis autograph. And here you can actually see a little sewing progress, but I don’t want to make a work in progress out of it, so I won’t write about every step I do.

I also moved the little sewing cabinet I inherited from my grandaunt, I have shown you some more photos of it here.

It changed places with the grammophone.

And, last but not least, my sewing machine, now standing below the roof pitch.

(I still don’t know if I want to place the pictures now standing behind the sewing machines on the wall next to the grammophone)

Well, so much for today, I hope you all have a nice sunday.

love, ette

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Grandmother’s sewing machine

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I know most of the antique shops in Berne and some of them I visit quite frequently. So I know much of the things for sale and only have to search for the new items amongst them.
In Lyon, as you can imagine, it was different. I found new shops every day and new items inside, even after revisiting them several times.
Yes, it was tempting…very! And I have to admit, I couldn’t resist:

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The majority of antique sewing machines I own funktion mechanically, but this one was electric and seemed to be very old. And indeed, the machine dates from 1923 and was produced in Clydebank, Scotland (thanks to the Singer-archive of serial numbers). Electrical sewing machines in the 1920ies? I was a little surprised, I admit. But Singer developed the first commercial electrical sewing machine as early as 1899, being the first worldwide.

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I hesitated to write a post about the machine, because I wasn’t able to test it yet. The cables and connections do not look very trustworthy, so I will change them with my father when he will pay me a visit the next time.

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But mechanically it sews. The only problem I have is the threading. I tried it several times, but the thread tension regulator doesn’t seem to tense anything, even though the spring works. But I assume the problem lies not within the tension regulator, but in my threading. I am sure a comparison and closer examination of other machines and instructions will help me.

Now, that means the machine turns 90 this year, this could as well be great-grandmother (but my grandmother was born 1922, unfortunately she passed away last summer). So why Grandmother’s sewing machine? Because the paper attached to the key says so:

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“Machine à coudre Mamie”, in English this means “Sewing machine, Grandma”. I don’t know how old this tag is, but is seems to have been written before my lifetime as well. I will keep it in every case, I love those bits of history.

So much for today, love

ette

 

Posted in antiques, sewing and handcrafting | 2 Comments

Keeping the couple together

I love those coincidences in life, where you are able to find things, that appearently have been togther for a very long time. And it is always heartbreaking to me when the seller is willing to sell them individually, I mean, they have spent years, decades, maybe a century together, can you really part them?

I have some sad things that I tore away from its partner as well.
One is a brand new bunch of cotton lace, still in its original packaging (ok, it’s not much of a packaging at all, a bit of silk paper, two ribbons and a tag). I found it when visiting a small antique fair nearby. The seller offered two or three of these laces, all very similar, apparently from the same producer/shop. But I asked myself what I should do with so much lace I won’t use (and of course three of them would have cost three times as much, she already had lowered the price) and so I bought only one of them.

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That the other object was torn away from its partners is not exactly my fault. Already quite some time ago I found four beautiful fashion drawings in an antique shop in the old city of Berne, all made by the same artist and in the same time, it really was a series. The seller wanted 80 CHF for each of the pictures, a price I really couldn’t afford for all four, but I didn’t want to tear them apart. A few month later I revisited the shop. All of the pictures had been sold, except for one. So that means the series already was seperated and I bought the last as a Christmas present to myself.

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But, there are also the situations, where you are able to keep the couple together.

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And of course I especially love photos that belong together. On a little flea market I found this wedding portrait, not expensive at all, so I was determined to buy it.

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The seller had another photo, but I hesitated to buy it as well, I just already have so many photos stored away without a possibility to show them. But he offered me a even cheaper price for both I couldn’t resist. And I am so lucky I didn’t.  Only at home did I realize, it is the same couple! I don’t know how I could ignore it.

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I am really glad I didn’t tear the two apart.

And I found another couple only some days ago. It was a large box with more or less antique post cards. I fell in love with the oldest ones, dating from the 1910s. The content of the box was a complete mess and I took just what seemed to be interesting or beautiful. On my way home in the train I started to read the texts the senders had written onto the back of the cards such a long time ago.
A Card to someone called Léon (I tried to translate them, but neither the handwriting of the sender nor my french is perfect, so if you detect any faults, please tell me):

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M Léon Leres (?)
109th refiment

Dear Léon
waiting for the joyful day of your return, one after another, I send you a thousand darling kisses and a good return to Echassey, the time seems so long and it is so sad, not to be able to meet more often, there will come the day to rejoin, I hope every day. Your little friend, who doesn’t forget you. Receive from far away my love most sincere, as well as my thoughts, H Dai (?)

Some cards later I got a little confused, because I was sure I hadn’t read them all yet, but I read the name Léon again. And really, it was from the same woman written to the same man, this time even the postmark is legible, it was sent on octobre 24th 1914.

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M Léon Seret
at the 383th infantry regiment
31st Company
Casern Bonnet
Alençon
Orne

Dear Léon
I wanted to tell you that we will come with the train at 11.09 tomorrow, you can ascend the train. Your dear friend, who loves you always and who will not forget you, by tomorrow dear Léon, your little Hélène, who sends you a thousand darling kisses.

Isn’t it romantic? So, I think this is enough love for one day,

see you soon,

ette

 

 

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What I wore this Saturday

It has been a long time that I posted an outfit of mine, so yesterday I thought it was about time.

This is what I wore to work on saturday:

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I bought the dress some years ago in my favourite antique shop, “Das Puppenhaus” in Oberhausen. It is made from whool and surely homemade. The seller dated it to the 1930ies and told me that it had been made from an old soldier’s coat. I have never did any research on children’s (or teen’s) clothing of that era, so I can neither proof nor confute it. And concerning the cut I could not find any proof of another use of the fabric before, but the front is made from only one piece of fabric. Considering the difficulties one was facing when changing adult’s clothes into something for children, I don’t know if this is really a plausible theory. Here an example in a Swiss Magazine from February 1944, showing how to make a boy’s jacket out of a men’s one:

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I wear it only very occasionally, not onlly because of its age, but also because I have serious difficulties to style it. It look so very well-behaved, like I was a pupil in a convent school, as my father once said.

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That’s why I paired it with patterned tights, laced boots, a silver bracelet and a very simple pendant, two small owls I bought in Paris some years ago.

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It has a zipper in the centre back and a box pleat (yes, and many wrinkles)

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I wish you all a very nice sunday and less snow than we have right here.
Love,

ette

Posted in antiques, Style/Outfits/Clothing | 3 Comments

The Lace has eyes

or maybe better: The lace is eyes.

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As I told you, before I went to Lyon I searched for something to craft without lots of supplies and decided to try to learn Tatting (Occhi in Italian, which means eyes in English). Now, I didn’t do much because there was so much else to see, but at least I started. I had bought two modern plastic shuttles some years ago at a crafting fair and last year I found one antique horn shuttle at an antique market.
Normally Tatting is made using two shuttles, but there are some easy patterns to start that can be worked with one shuttle only. After having tried a lace with two shuttles and failed badly, I started with another design from the book, using only one shuttle.

If you ever think about learning tatting: buy good shuttles! It is possible to work with the plasctic ones, but they are rather light, the are just…not that cooperative. The horn shuttle is very smooth, it makes its way through a loop nearly on his own, the weight is perfect, it was just so much better to work with.
Before I will start a new tatting project I want to find another horn- or any alternative shuttle, but I can’t imagine working a whole lace with those plastic things.

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Now, the lace. Because it was only a test to get to know the technique, I used a leftover from my crocheted doily.
The lace consists only of loops with three pikots, the two on the sides always interlace with the neighbouring loops. You can see that they are connected through loose threads, normally you could work this bows as lace as well, if you were working with a second shuttle, so it is not common for occhi-lace that those threads are visible.

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I don’t know what I will use it for, yet. I first planned to decorate a neckline with it, but it is slightly too long for this (83cm) and I don’t want to have any leftovers. For a hem it is a little too short, but I am sure I will find a project to use it.

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A summary? It was good to learn this technique and once you have understood the basic principles, it is not that difficult (as far as I can understand at the moment). It is time consuming, yes, but I think that lace making in general is everything but a fast craft.

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See you soon, love,

ette

 

Posted in sewing and handcrafting | 1 Comment