IT is really not my favourite thing to deal with…

Some of you recorded me, that my new posts aren’t shown in their Bloglovin-Feed. I am really sorry to hear about this.

After my tries ended in a catastrohpy (wasn’t able to log-in anymore, my blog was gone and only left a 404-error etc.) I called the support of my webhost.

Now he changed a few settings and my blog is back as it was, but for a small change:

The support changed my url so that the problem with the posts not shown in the feed should be solved now. He simply deleted the /wordpress in my url.

Unfortunately, bloglovin doesn’t unterstand that it is in fact the same blog.
So I had to claim my blog anew, meaning that if you would like to read my posts in the future, you have to follow my blog anew, too.
Because the adress doesn’t exist anymore, I am unable to write this to the followers of my new but old blog-url. I hope at least some of you will still read it here.

But that should also mean, that my blog-post will appear in your feeds again, at least I do hope so :-)

So, new-old adress: www.parvasedapta.ch , at the bottom of the page you will find the button to follow this new adress. Alternatively you can also visit my bloglovin-profile and follow the new blog (it is a bit confusing, because I already “own” three blogs, all named the same, so please check the url).

I am so sorry for so much moving and confusion and change and chaos and…well, yes, sorry :-)

see you soon, love

ette

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I moved, please update your bookmarks

Today, bloglovin informed me about a new follower on this blog.

So please note again:

This blog won’t be updated anymore. It will stay online for another couple of months to inform you about this change, I don’t want anybody to have problems finding my blog if she or he wants to, so I don’t want to delete it too quickly.

My new blog can be found here, there is a bloglovin-icon on the bottom of the page to keep you updated about new posts from me.

New adress:

www.parvasedapta.ch

See you soon, love,

ette

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New Blog Adress!

Yes, there is a new post, a new sewing project, a sign of life

BUT not here!

I had to move my blog to a new address.
I would be very happy to welcome you as my guests and to read your comments in the future, too.

So please head over there, be careful not to forget the www. (it won’t work without it) and update you bookmarks and feeds to stay informed about new posts in the future.

If you follow me via Bloglovin you can find my new blog in my profile as well.

http://www.parvasedapta.ch/

See you soon, love

ette

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what’s this? 70ies! 30ies! 50ies?

I already mentioned the small antiques Shop “das Puppenhaus” in my hometown quite a few times.
In front of the actual shop the owner installed a shelf with modern, less valuable or broken things. Everything in this shelf is 1€, if you fill one of the plastic bags next to the shelf, it is 3€ total. Of course, what you find there is rarely more than rummage, but if you search for chipped plates, cheesy 70ies novels and other stuff, this is the place to go.
Obviously, you only need to be interested in a very few things to start thinking “mh, maybe I should fill a bag”. What I usually filled the gaps with was clothing, you can always use it as a fabric resource. I found a Korn-Bandshirt, a skirt that now forms part of my quilt and a hilarious 1970ies (?) nightgown.

This colour is very difficult to describe and even more difficult to photograph. It lies somewhere between “very-light-shade-of-pink” and “I-forgot-a-red-sock-in-the-white-laundry”. As you see, it is very wide, label says size 50 (though sizing has changed in the last 40 years, 50 must have been pretty large already back then). The fabric is a very light, sheer cotton with machine embroidery in the front, the back is plain.

Now, this dreadfullness has been in my stock for a rather long time, maybe around 6 years. I always planned to turn it into something wearable, adjust it to my size, make something completely different out of it, I had plenty of ideas. But then, everytime I looked at it I shook my head and put it back.

Finally I faced the monster.

First I cut away all the seams, but kept the hem and the buttonband.
The sleeves’ fabric was very worn and threadbare, I was close to throwing it away (but I didn’t, as you’ll see later). The front and back were each made from one large sheet of fabric without any darts or similar (but for the buttonband). Because the original cut had raglan sleeves, the fabric was much narrower on the top end than at the hem.

I chose a pattern for a nightgown I found in a 1937 schoolbook I bought in april 2013.

I copied the upper parts of the front and back and placed them onto my fabric as high as possible (remember, the raglan cut).  The resulting pieces I sewed together, using french seams. The sleeveless gown was much shorter than I had hoped for, but at least it was already hemmed.

What was left of the fabric were the bits cut away to form the armholes in the front, a larger piece from the back and the sleeves. I cut away all the fabric that was too worn to be used, turning the rest into more or less straight stripes. These stripes, eight in total, I patched together to two rectagles of four, having one embroidered stripe in each of it. I formed kind of a halfcircle to turn them into sleeves. The hem I decorated with a polyester lace, that is in no way less horrible than the original nightgown had been. I set the sleeves in and finished the neckline with white bias binding on the inside (it is a little stiff, I hope it gets better after having been washed a couple of times). I re-attached the ribbon (not before re-sewing it, the thread was more brittle than the fabric itself, and yes, it is off-centre, don’t tell me ;-) ) and found a button in the exact same hilarious pale shade of pink (maybe it even came from this nightgown, I can’t remember if the buttons were already missing or if I took them off).

Well yes, and now it looks like a late 1950ies babydoll-dress, though I made no alterations to the pattern at all. Well, except for the length, the sleeves and the already given buttonband and ribbon.

The Challenge: #1 Make do & Mend

Fabric: pale pink cotton with machine embroidery

Pattern: basic nightgown pattern from a schoolbook

Year: 1937

Notions: thread, polyester lace, plastic button, bias binding

How historically accurate is it? well, the pattern is an original one, the fabric is imaginable in the 1930ies. But the machine embroidery, the length and the overall impression it gives aren’t suitable for this decade at all, so let’s say 20-30%

Hours to complete: 4

First worn:  january 3, 2014

Total cost: maybe less than 1€ (3m bias binding cost 0,80€, I used less than 1m, lace surely was part of a convolute bought somewhere at a flea market, button as well. Costs for the nightgown I already explained above)

And a funny work-in-progress-photo featuring the lady of the house. I had searched for inspiration for the next challenge when I didn’t work on the nightgown (lying in the background), that’s why the magazines still lay on the sofa. Seems as if they have their own bobyguard now. She even stares like an aged librarian.

See you soon, love,

ette

Posted in antiques, sewing and handcrafting | 2 Comments

First signs of insanity

Can anybody remember what I wrote in my first post in 2013?

I said that I wanted to sharpen my blog’s profile, concentrating on historic, historical or historically-inspired fashion, crafting, textiles.
I occupied myself a lot with Vintage-fashion this year, discovering a whole new world and learned an awful lot.
As a side-effect, this made my blog appear like a Vintage-blog, concentrating on mid-20th-century fashion. I have nothing against neither Vintage in general nor mid-century-fashion, not at all. But it is hard to claim that this blog is about historical textiles of all epoches, when this year’s oldest project dates from 1942.

And do you know why this happened? Not only because it interested me this year above all, but because I can wear it. As I already said in my last post, 9 projects in a year really isn’t much and the time I have had to sew I used to make garments that I can wear at least more or less every day. Though it was always a dream of mine, doing this with 18th-century-patterns isn’t that easy.

But this year I didn’t only learn a lot about 20th-century-fashion, but also about myself. I learned, that I lose very much time in the internet, in front of the TV, in doing a little bit here and another little bit there, but nothing planned, throughoutly structured, organised. I know that I will be able to sew more, create more, learn more, eliminating this patchwork-planning from my daily schedule.

My plans for 2014:
- no TV alone. When I am with my boyfriend, it’s ok, but as soon as he leaves to do something different, I will switch it of and do something productive or read.
- switch the computer off. I usually have my computer running all day. This leads to constant “oh, maybe there is a new blogpost/email/answer/webpage somewhere”-moments, making me sit in front of the screen much too long. In the future I want to start the computer, do what I want to do and switch it off afterwards. If there really is something I forgot, I will have to switch it on later again, but it prevents me from checking my mails ten times a day.
- use the free time I have: In 2014 I will be working 60% of my week.  This is time I will be away from home, different to university work at home that could be stopped and done later in the evening. This leaves me with three to four days a week off work (I sometimes work half shifts), in these the household has to be done, my boyfriend might have his day off, too and we’ll be doing something together.  But there will be plenty of time to sew, to craft, to do what I like. Challenge will be, to use this time and to not let it passed unplanned.

To put it short, I have two goals for this blog in 2014: post more projects and post more historical projects. And I think I found a tool for achieving this:

Amidst 2013, being struck in my MA-thesis, I discovered a large and very ambitious project, the Historical Sew Fortnightly, hosted by the Dreamstress.
The outlines are very shortly described: A challenge to be executed every two weeks. The challenges are announced some time ahead, so it is possible to work longer, e.g. on a larger project or to prepare something to be posted later. The challenge isn’t called historical for nothing, timeline reaches back as far as you wish to, but ends 1945.
How to interpret the challenges, how historically accurate the result is, even how many challenges are executed, is left to the participants.

And yes, it will run in 2014, again. And I will participate.

Having no idea how my work-schedule will look in 2014, having no idea what I will do in the second half of the year, being absolutely aware that I shouldn’t post only about this project (meaning I will have to sew/post more than this project), yes, you might call me ambitious or maybe already insane, it’s up to you, I haven’t decided yet ;-)

Because every two week really is a tough goal, I decided to only run the “half-marathon” meaning to participate in every other challenge. So this is my goal, to do at least half of them.

But, because beginning is always easier than carrying on and because the first challenge ends on 31. January, I will see how many projects I am able to prepare until daily job routine will stab me in the back.

Now, anybody who likes to join, too?

And now I wish you all a very Happy New Year 2014, see you soon,

love

ette

Posted in everything else, sewing and handcrafting | 4 Comments

This was 2013

Another year is already over. So, let’s have a look how it has been to me:

2013 surely has been one of the most exhausting years of my life, but it also changed a lot.
The first half of the year I wrote my MA-thesis, finished it in summer and finally got my degree in early autumn.

This was undoubtedly the most profund change in my life. As long as I can remember I have either been a pupil or a student, now I am done, I can work, I finished what I wanted to! Stunning, I am not sure if I already understood it completely.

And we moved, another major step this year. From our 2-room flat right under the roof into a spacious 4-room apartment. And though we have some issues with this flat as well, it is certainly an improvement and a good starting point to see, what to do next and how to structure our life for the forthcoming years.

Now, let’s talk about this blog. In the past 12 months I wrote 37 blogposts. 2013′s projects were my first steps in tatting, my fake-fur collar, a tablecloth-circleskirt, my 1946-handkerchief-bra,  the pencilskirt to match my polkadot-blouse, 1942-culottes, the corduroy-pinafore for my niece, my candycane-bow neck blouse and the Marlene Esser-shift dress.

Not much, but more than I guessed, I have the feeling I have done nothing this year, it flew so quickly.

So, what about the projects still lying around?

The Fall-for-Cotton-dress

Technically it is finished, but because I didn’t manage to complete the matching bolero, I want to wait until the whole ensemble is ready to be presented.
Left to do: Attach one last (!) ribbon to the bolero and gather the lower edge.

My 1940ies coat

The most recent picture, this was in march. Meanwhile it is completely assembled and lined. Unfortunately the fit is far from good and the sleeve-lining is too short.
Left to do: undo the seam on the sleeves’ hems, insert a line of bias-binding to gain at least some centimetres, hope that it will be enough; hem it; stitch the front-facing in place; attach buttons and press fasteners.

My Chiné-à-la-branche-dress

I attached it to the pink dress and handstitched the lining of the dress (it was visible on the neckline).  Unfortunately, a chemical cleaning wasn’t able to remove the stains from the skirt (but hopefully the smell from the dress), now it is hanging in my closet, but I still do not dare to wash it, fearing that the colours will bleed.
Left to do: wash, hope, maybe attach tulle to form a built-in petticoat (or simply wear a seperate one)

My English-Quilt

I am close to finishing the 3rd part out of five, but have to say that I wasn’t very ambitious to make a progress this year.
Left to do: well, assembling hexagons, and quilting in the far, far future.

The flowered-silk-dress

That’s really long ago. I bought this silk in march 2012 and promised to turn it into a dress. Left to do: Well, the pattern pieces for the lining are drawn onto the fabric, but not yet cut. Yes, that’s all :-)

Other project not yet mentioned here:
There are still some other projects I am working on. One is a dress around 1800, made from a printed cotton fabric I bought in Lyon in 2012. As a pattern I am using an original one published in Janet Arnolds “Patterns of fashion 1″. I have come so far to construct a lining in a very stiff upholstery fabric, planning to subtitute the short stay worn under it with this. Still to be done has: completing this lining, meaning finishing the edges, adding a closure and some boning and then to cut and assemble the upper fabric.

And a cover for my mandolin, but I fear I will never finish it, so it doesn’t have to be discussed here in detail. ;-)

At the moment I am experimenting with a pre-historical pattern, made from modern fabrics to test, how wearable it still is.

Mh, and there is this hilarious crocheted pullover, I am not sure I even want to complete.

Now, I won’t start to enlist all the ideas running in my mind that only wait to get started (oh, this would really put me under pressure^^)

Depending on how busy the next few days will be, maybe I will be writing another post before the year is over, but I really can’t tell.

So much for today, see you soon,

love,

ette

Posted in everything else, my English quilt, sewing and handcrafting | Comments Off

Merry Christmas

I wish you, your families, friends and beloved one, a very merry Christmas. I hope you have a wonderful time of joy, being together, visiting those who are dear to you, have something nice to eat and maybe something you wished for under the christmas tree.

Christmas card by Ilse Schütze

…It can be realized as a pen drawing on cardboard in black ink or sepia brown or subltly coloured: the sky cobaltblue, the fir tree green with a mixture of grey and yellow-ultramarine; the candles’ flames are yellow, the faces and hands a pale flesh colour and the hair is painted blond with a light shade of ochre. The drawing of the angels’ and clouds’ outllines is to be done in dark grey. …

In: Kunstgewerbe für’s Haus, Issue Decembre 1905

see you soon, love

ette

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Getrödelt, gefunden, gefreut #4

As each month, SwinginCat is hosting “Getrödelt, gefunden, gefreut” at her blog “Beswingtes Allerlei”. Thank you so much for this series!

I haven’t been to one single flea market in november. First because I was pretty busy, second because it is cold (ok, that doesn’t keep me from going normally) and third because I was stunned discovering what loads of stuff I have while moving. Buying antique patterns on sundays and working the rest of the week is fine, but this doesn’t give you any chance to work with the things you purchased. So I decided to reduce my fleamarket-sundays and increase my sewing-sundays, let’s see how long I will be able to stick to it. :-)

I’m not sure if I mentioned it, in november I spent a whole week in Gotha, a city in Thüringen/Germany. We visited Schloss Friedenstein, a rather unimpressive baroque castle from the outside, but with an amazing interiour and a lovely textile collection in storage, which we (some fellow art historians and students along with our professor) were able to see and examine.

And there I found, what is to become this month’s find:

maybe the trained eye is already able to discern some characteristic features?

On one of the evenings I went to an antique book shop, as I always do when finding the time to do so. Having dicovered the shelf with handcrafting and decorative arts I was first a little disappointed, because nothing was really interesting. But directly next to the shelf I found a whole stack of pattern magazines, some in great, other in deplorable condition.
The seller refused to say what he asked for one magazine, but forced me to give him a prize for the whole lot. I, knowing what those magazines can cost today and knowing that I wasn’t willing to spend this amount of money that one evening, declined to make an offer. So he did, unfortunately one that I wasn’t able to resist.

The lot consists of 19 Beyer pattern magazines, dating mostly from 1938 to 1942, there is  each from 1937 and 1944. Instructions and patterns are almost completely included (only one magazine misses one of the pattern sheets).

Included in the stack were some other things as well: A 1939 zipper promotion (all those little arrows point to where they used the zippers on the garments)…

…some fragments of other handcrafting magazines (and a cover of another Beyer issue), two pattern sheets of now lost Vobach-magazines and lots of so-called “Abplättmuster”. These are patterns, mostly for embroidery, printed in a special blue ink, that can be ironed onto fabric. So you don’t need to transfer the pattern by drawing, but simply by ironing. Some of those patterns are Vobach ones as well, but the majority belongs to the Beyer-magazines. Because those patterns had to be ordered mostly seperately, they are not dated, but only marked with a number. I am pretty sure that those numbers will match many of the ones given in the magazines.

On the one hand I think we are all aware of the fact, that those magazines are a product of their time. On the other hand they had a life afterwards and they still have. This becomes very obvious when looking at the patterns that have been used. They where traced onto old newspapers, sometimes years after publishing (as today, I still use my 1990ies patterns). In the 1937 issue I found a 3rd Reich newspaper from 1939 right next to a socialist one from 1950. We don’t know if the owner changed between those two dates or if it was the same person, but it is quite interesting that the older pattern wasn’t thrown away as well as those are both mute witnesses of two very different totalitarian regimes, used in a completely unpolitical way after they had fulfilled their original purpose.

And something a little more funny to end: I don’t know if you, but I happen to stumble across patterns that I own printed in a Burda-magazine and that are also available as a single pattern, published afterwards. While looking at all those patterns in the Beyer-magazines, every now and then I had the feeling, that I had already seen that particular pattern elsewhere. First I thought “well, it is similar to another one” or “maybe you saw it earlier when flipping through the pages”. But then I found one pattern of that I was very sure that I had already seen it, even made it.

Does somebody remember that dress I wrote about in august 2012?

I made it using a 1940ies pattern-booklet I had bought in Dresden in 2011.
Yes, and it seems as if Beyer didn’t do different than Burda does today, that is republishing patterns:

I wish you all a very beautiful 1st advent sunday!

love,

ette

Posted in antiques, sewing and handcrafting | 6 Comments

What inspires me… Giveaway at Dividing Vintage Moments

Joanna of Dividing Vintage Moments hosts a lovely giveaway with really beautiful things to win.
All she asks for is writing a post about my 10 personal vintage inspirations. Where do I draw my inspiration for vintage clothing or living from.

So, dear Joanna, this is my list (and in case you wonder: I have none of the accounts asked to comment on your posts, so I can’t write into the comment form, but be sure, I love reading your blog!)

1. magazines

I love flipping through magazines of the time. Not especially fashion magazines, what I love is to capture the feeling of a certain period, so I love to read good old gossip or an article on education or budgeting as well.

(clockwise from top left: Formes et Couleurs 1944, Almanach du Foyer 1924, Der Silberstreifen 1948, Die Frau 1956, Life international 1961, Paris Match 1963, Marie Claire 1941, Ciné-Miroir 1938+1939)

2 films

First of all, I love, I adore Bette Davis, don’t ask why. It’s like falling in love with someone, I can’t give you a reason. So she is a constant inspiration for me. But I love films from the 1920ies to 1960ies in general and watch them whenever I happen to catch one on television. Besides this and a growing DVD collection, Youtube is my best friend, happily so many films are free to watch today.

3 books on fashion history

Though they often use materials I can’t afford and are made with a level of perfection I will never manage to achieve, I love looking at preserved designer’s dresses from earlier decades. It doesn’t make me want to recreate the actual dresses, but they give me inspiration, on what to draw attention to, on what to concentrate, how to treat a special cut or fabric. And of course, it is a glamorous world I have never been part of, it’s simply lovely to see.

(clockwise from top left: Fashion. Eine Modegeschichte vom 18. bis zum 20. Jahrhundert, Kyoto Costume Institute (pub.), Köln 2006; O. Saillard and A. Zazzo: Paris Haute Couture: Paris 2012; C. Fiell and E. Dirix: La mode des Années 1930 en images, Paris 2012; Kleider machen Leute, Bürgerliche Moden des 19. Jahrhunderts, Rheinisches Industriemuseum (pub., exhibition catalogue); H. Worsley: Très tendance. La mode de 1900 à nos jours, Potsdam 2011; J. Stockar: Zürich. Mode durch die Jahrhunderte, Zürich 1974; T. Tolkien: Schick & Schrill. Klassiker der Designermode, Hamburg 2002; Anziehungspunkt. 125 Jahre Deutsches Textilmuseum (exhibition Catalogue), Krefeld 2005; E. Thiel: Geschichte des Kostüms. Die europäische Mode von den Anfängen bis zur Gegenwart, Berlin 2004; Hommage aux donateurs. Modes françaises du XVIIIe siècle à nos jours; Ville de Paris Musée de la mode et du costume (pub., exhibition catalogue), Paris 1980; L. Johnston: Nineteenth-century fashion in detail, London 2009)

4 actual originals

Here again, as with the magazines: These don’t need to be actual garments. A beautiful embroidery on a handkerchief bought at a flea market, a pair of gloves with a lovely detail, a brooch, an embroidered box, everything that somehow catches the spirit of a certain epoche or makes this very object something special and unique (though of course it often isn’t, but please, let me stay in this world of make-believe).

(My vanity table: 1950ies vanity set with rococo-scenes printed on silk in its original box, handkerchiefs from 50ies to 70ies, 30ies lace collar, 30ies silk-covered box with embroidery, 40ies tin can, 50ies glove box, art deco-brooch, 30ies (?maybe earlier) spectacle case, 70ies make-up neccessaire)

5 books

Knowing the cut and shapes that were fashionable in a certain decade, I love reading books that were written some decades ago. Mostly, the description of garments is not very detailed, but, knowing when a book was first published, I love to “dress” the charakters in my imagination, make them fit into their time, have them wear something scandalous or rather old fashioned. So I draw the inspiration from a book, but imagine the actual design myself.

6 advertisements

This seems to be kind of a trend at the moment. Last week I even found a Mid-Century-Ad-Calendar for 2014. But knowing how shiny and glamorous, sometimes really ridiculous advertising is today, one can easily imagine that this didn’t change much the last 100 years. And still I love being seduced by those full-bodied promises and imagine what I would have chosen to buy.

(same as in 1)

7 postcards

I would like to include three types of postcards in here: First, antique ones. A lovely source not only for images. I love reading words of love or of friendship that have been written decades ago.
The second type are reproduction postcards. They are cheap, easy to find and show lovely images of whatever period you want.
And last, museum postcards, showing certain dresses, details or fabrics of the museum’s collection. As with the reprinted cards, they are comparably cheap, easy to store and give you the possibility to have a closer look at rare originals without buying loads of books or ruining yourself buying antique dresses in great numbers (ha, as if I could afford that, really, who could?).

(some antique postcards I own)

8 music

Most of the decades of the first half of the 20th century are connected to a special kind of music or dancing. Thinking of the 20ies, many people tend to think of dancing flappers, same applies to the 50ies, where images of whirling petticoats on the dancefloor begin to come to one’s mind. At the same time, music can make us feel as if we were in another place, can make us forget our environment. I have a modern record player in the living room but, more beloved than this, a 1950ies gramophone right next to my sewing machine. I love listening to my 78RPM-records while sewing something historical on my 1948 Singer machine and the images that come to my mind at those times may form the basement of a future project of mine.

(from fore- to background: Early 20th century pin-cushion table, 1950ies Thorens gramophone , 1948 Singer Featherweight on a mid-century Gritzner with table, my current sewing-project, mid-century sewing-table, 1960ies desk lamp)

9 photos

Same as with postcards, photos are easy to find on flea markets and the like and are comparably cheap, especially when they are in a bad condition. But stains or a tear don’t ruin the photo, as long as I can see what is pictured, it is fine to me. And additionally, I love to see that those things had a live much more than finding them in mint condition.

(clockwise from top left: 1930ies photo album, mid-century photos, early 20th century photos, 1960ies photos of my relatives)

10 my job

Being an art historian with special qualification in the history of textiles, I come in contact with antique costume and fabrics quite often. There is little more inspiring than touching a hand-sewn 18th-century robe, standing speechless in front of a 16th century embroidery, looking at a silk-brocade through a magnifying glass, catching a glimpse at the inside of a mid-century tailor-made jacket. Discovering technical finesses a tailor used 200 years ago is so special. Examining how a garment or a decoration was actually constructed gives me so many ideas on how to make my own historical or vintage garments.
I admit this is quite difficult to do when working in another kind of business.  20th century clothing can be found in some charity and antique shops. For earlier pieces try to find an antique shop who is specialized in clothing or see if a local auction house will have a textiles auction soon, sometimes they offer to see the objects some days previous to the auction. Visit museums, if you really want to research something ask if you will be allowed to see a certain object in detail, some museums (for example the V&A, but I am sure the MET and many more do have, too) have study collections for those purposes.

(detail of an early 20th century women’s blouse, Gemeindemuseum Krauchthal)

So, I would divide two main areas of inspiration for myself. First, the actual object: it gives you hints on techniques, on the impression of special materials and embellishments, actual visual starting points to create a dress, an outfit, a style. And second: catching the spirit, be it through music, through a film, long gone news or a trip to the mountains 80 years ago, captured in photos. A note on a postcard or the rusty coffee advertisement on the inside of a tin. I love to be surrounded by those things, love to dive into this feeling, imagine what I would do actually living in this certain period.

Where do you draw your inspiration from?

love,

ette

Posted in antiques, everything else | 1 Comment

Wearable fail, a 60ies pattern

Some years ago I found a hardly used 60ies pattern in a charity shop for the steal of 50 cents. It was opened, but not cut, so if it has been used somebody has carefully traced the cut parts.

The pattern is for a classical mod dress to be made in a multitude of variants. It was part of a pattern line of a german TV seamstress, Marlene Esser. She had her own sewing show in German television in the 60ies and 70ies.

I chose a fabric I had bought in Lyon last fall, a dark blue piqué with small twigs and birds on it. It is a rather stiff fabric and a very cute pattern, so I wanted a very neutral cut and nothing too girly. Additionally the fabric pattern calls for a garment with only a few seams.

The pattern is already a multisize one, but because too many lines would have been too unclear and difficult to tell apart (as said in the pattern desciption), they only traced every second size (they should see our modern ones). The instructions say, if you need the size in between, you should trace your own line half a centimetre beside the printed one.
Now, the smallest size on the envelope was 38, the smallest size printed was 40. Even considered that sizing used to be different back then, 40 is still a little large. So I did as I was told and made my traced pattern a little smaller. I knew it was too large, but because the front was only made from one part with very large darts I decided to give it a try, before manipulating the pattern. And of course, afte having sewn together all the pieces it was way too large. To turn it into something wearable I pinned it onto my mannequin and removed a lot of fabric from each seam.

And unfortunately it was so much that I had to add a seam in the centre front. In fact, this is one of the variants given (see first picture, the dress on the very left), but it completely destroys the pattern.


*shy look at my shoes*


*bad model-me doesn’t know how to pose*

The result looks more like on of those fitted chinese-style dresses than a 60ies-A-line-dress, so the fitting changed the style of this dress significantly. And though there are some minor flaws (like the neckline, which sticks out on one side, fortunately not visible in the pictures), I think it is wearable and even if it won’t become my favourite dress, it will move into my wardrobe and is most likely to be worn every now and then.

I used light pink bias binding for the arm and neck openings and a pink zipper I still had in my stash.

The traced pattern is already in the waste-paper collection. If I am really to make a second version someday in the future, I will try to make a fitting pattern based on the original one. The one I made was too far away from anything I could wear, so the best would be to completely restart.

Improvised beehive only for you, I am sure I could do better. ;-)

(headband: i am, belt: 2nd hand/h&m, tights: ?, shoes: deichmann, fragrance: j.p. gaultier – madame)

 

I hope you have a nice sunday, see you soon,
love

ette

Posted in sewing and handcrafting | 6 Comments